Mount Stanley

Mount Stanley

Mount Stanley or Mount Ngaliema  is a mountain located in the Rwenzori Mountains. With an elevation of 5,109 m (16,763 ft), it is the highest mountain of both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Uganda, and the third highest in Africa, after Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m). The peak and several other surrounding peaks are high enough to support glaciers. Mount Stanley is named for the journalist and explorer, Sir Henry Morton Stanley. It is part of the Rwenzori  Mountains National Park, a UNESCO world Heritage Site and is also a high chain of some 11 summits that rise from variety of glaciers that include the Stanley Plateau that is the largest mass of ice with in the Rwenzori Mountains and is also over one kilometer in length. The highest of the summits the Margherita peak, is hiked from the Elena hut to the first rocks and then cross the snow and ice Stanley Plateau towards Alexandra peak, the second highest summit is the Massif.

Along the eastern ridge of the peak, the normal route for the Margherita slopes a steep gully and then hike the dramatic Margherita glacier to the col which is between Margherita peak and Alexandra peak. Just from here, one can hike north to a short and steep rock wall which is also climbed to the summit. The rope will be needed for the widely crevassed glacier and the summit rocks. The peak also forms the boundary between Uganda and the DRC. The eastern ridge of the Alexandra peak at 4990m is also an excellent climb as well. Towards the south, there is another collection of peaks that are topped by Savoia peak at 4977m. The Ascent of any of these peaks across the great topical glaciers is something strange and an experience that will be enjoyed by most fans of the exotic.

Mt. Stanley consists of two (twin) summits and several lower peaks:

Peak                                       metres                  feet

Margherita Peak                5,109                     16,763

Alexandra                              5,091                     16,703

Albert                                       5,087                     16,690

Savoia                                       4,977                     16,330

Ellena                                        4,968                     16,300

Elizabeth                                  4,929                     16,170

Phillip                                        4,920                     16,140

Moebius                                    4,916                     16,130

Great Tooth                             4,603                     15,100


First ascent

The first recorded ascent of Mt. Stanley was in 1906 on 18th June by Luigi Amedeo, J. Petigax, C. Ollier, and J. Brocherel. Margherita Peak is named after Queen Margherita of Italy.