Mawenzi Peak on Mount Kilimanjaro:
Mt Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain on the African continent with three distinct peaks, Shira (3962m), Mawenzi (5149m), and Kibo (5895m). Mawenzi is the second highest peak on Mount Kilimanjaro that make up the Kilimanjaro massif. The rocky peak of Mawenzi (5,149 m) lies to the east. The volcano known as Mawenzi formed as a result of another eruption within the Shira caldera. The top of its western face is fairly steep with many cliffs, apexes and ditch swarms.
Mawenzi being the key component of Africa’s highest mountain, it often gets overshadowed by its older brother, Kibo, and isn’t as well-known on its own. Depending on the route you choose and the weather conditions, you are very likely to see Mawenzi Peak on your Kilimanjaro climb.
The first person to ascend the Mawenzi peak on mount kilimanjaro
The first successful ascent of Kilimanjaro’s highest peak, Uhuru Peak, took place in 1889, marking a historic achievement in climbing Kilimanjaro. Two Europeans accomplished this historic climb: Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller. They also tried to hike up Mawenzi Peak but found it too challenging. Despite making three attempts, they were unable to reach the summit.
Other attempts to climb this peak are not well-documented. Over the years, climbers have tried to reach its highest peak but often ended up on different peaks by mistake. For many, this was their most important achievement.
Finally, in 1912, 23 years later, another pair of climbers successfully reached Mawenzi Peak, which they named in Honor of Hans Meyer. German explorers Fritz Klute and Eduard Oehler were the ones who accomplished this achievement. Their expedition’s main goal was to explore and photograph Kilimanjaro. They spent 4.5 months in the high-altitude regions above the tropical forest and reached the summit on July 29, 1912.
They also visited the Kibo crater and circled the entire Shira Plateau, the collapsed upper part of the original Kilimanjaro volcano. Their detailed and meticulous work produced a high-quality map of Kilimanjaro, documenting the boundaries of the glaciers on the Roof of Africa.
Height of Mawenzi peak
The main summit, that makes Mawenzi the third-highest peak in Africa, which is Hans Meyer peak is at 5,149 meters above sea level. It was named Hans Meyer Peak, in Honor of the first person to successfully reach the highest point of Mount Kilimanjaro—Uhuru Peak, which stands at 5,895 meters on Kibo. However, Meyer’s attempts at climbing Mawenzi were unsuccessful, showing the difficulty of climbing this tough summit.
Its eastern side falls in cliffs over 1,000 m high in a complex of gullies and rock faces, rising above two deep gorges. Mawezi peaks have seven peaks as listed from north to north
Nordecke 5136 m
Hans Meyer 5149 m, the highest point
Purtscheller 5120 m
Borchers 5115 m
Klute 5096 m
Latham Peak 5087 m
Londt 4945 m.
The terrain of Mawenzi peak makes most its peaks unreachable but by technical roped ascents
Physical features found on Mawenzi peak
Mawenzi Peak’s physical features include a rugged summit with steep ridges and pinnacles resulting from erosion and a mafic dike swarm. Deep erosion has created features like cirques (large, bowl-shaped valleys), gullies, and deep gorges. The peak’s eastern side has been heavily eroded, and it is composed primarily of trachybasalts.
Aside from its peaks, the mountain has some intriguing features. One notable aspect is Mawenzi Tarn, a small lake located to the north of the summit in the North Corrie area. This lake is unique because it has no outflow.
Is It Possible to Climb Mawenzi Peak?
Yes. For more than a decade, it was not allowed to scale Mawenzi Peak due to the danger it posed. The steep terrain and delicate rocks made climbing it extremely dangerous. Despite the risks, the park authorities reopened Mawenzi for tourists.
Note that Mawenzi’s rough and eroded nature makes it a technical climb, requiring skill and experience beyond those needed for Uhuru Peak, which is a non-technical, trekking peak. The peak’s challenging nature means that it is infrequently climbed. Not many Kilimanjaro guide companies operate on Mawenzi Peak.
Today, there are several routes to this peak. The easiest one starts from the saddle between Mawenzi and Kibo. There is also the northern Rongai route and the southern route branching off from the Marangu route. All the routes intersect and meet at a camp, from where climbers make their final ascent to the summit.
There are two camps on the mountain: Mawenzi Tarn at an altitude of 4,330 meters and Mawenzi Hut at 4,600 meters.
To obtain a permit from the national park, you must be an experienced climber and have a qualified local guide as your companion.
The mandatory equipment for climbers includes ropes, harnesses, crampons, carabiners, ice axes, helmets, and other gear. The complete list can be found on the Tanzania National Parks Authority website. Climbers familiar with this peak recommend starting ascents and descents early in the morning when the rocks are frozen. During the day, under the bright sun, rockfalls can occur.
Safety and Security Guidelines for climbing mount mawenzi peak
Only experienced rock climbers shall attempt Mawenzi technical climb
Briefing will be conducted by guide prior to departure
Tour operator shall provide a first aid kit for the Mawenzi climbers
Tour operator shall have a reliable communication system and rescue/emergence response plan
Visitors must have the following technical climbing mountain gears;
- Long Slings
- Medium length slings
- Carabiners
- Rappell device
- 60m 8.5mm ropes
- Alpine harness
- Locking carabiners
- Climbing boots
- Helmets
- Ice axes
- Crampons
Only one group of two climbers at a time will be allowed during climbing Mawenzi Peak.
Mountain technical climbers shall be careful to avoid accidents
All climbers should adhere with all other park rules and regulations.
Minimum age allowed in the activities shall of be 18 or above 18 years old.
When is the Best Time to Climb Mawenzi Peak?
The best time to climb Mawenzi Peak is during the two dry seasons.
The long dry season from the end of June to October offers clear, dry weather, making it an ideal time for climbing. The skies are often clear, providing excellent views and stable conditions for technical climbing.
The short dry season from December to early March is characterized by slightly warmer temperatures, which can be a more comfortable climb, especially at lower altitudes.
Location of mount mawenzi
Mawenzi is located 340 kilometers south of the equator in Tanzania. The mountain is part of a protected area—the Kilimanjaro National Park—making it difficult for just anyone to get close to it. Mass ascents of Mawenzi Peak are out of the request, and the climbing routes on Kilimanjaro typically lead to the summit of the neighbouring Kibo volcano.
Mawenzi is a volcano that erupted about one million years ago. Following a secondary eruption and heavy erosion, its cone fractured, and much of the softer rock was eroded. What’s left today are jagged peaks and sharp formations of solidified lava.
Only experienced mountaineers should attempt climbing Mawenzi. However, even for them, the ascent can be risky. The park authorities allow only experts with the right equipment to climb Mawenzi Peak, and only if they are accompanied by skilled guides who know the mountain well.